Shoe Expertise

Leather

There are many different types and qualities of leather.

Basically, footwear fashion distinguishes between smooth leather, suede leather and synthetic or vegan leather.

Smooth Leather

A distinction is made between coated and open-pore smooth leather. Open-pore smooth leather is usually softer, more delicate and considerably more sensitive to moisture than coated smooth leather. Coated smooth leather, on the other hand, has a durable top layer and is characterized by a stronger color finish.

Suede Leather

This type of leather is characterized by its more or less roughened surface. Examples include velour leather and nubuck leather. What makes nubuck and velour leather special is their pleasant texture – finely structured, softly brushed, warm and velvety.

Synthetic / Vegan Leather

For those who prefer not to use animal products, synthetic or vegan leather offers a durable, attractive and high-quality alternative. In terms of appearance and wearing comfort, vegan leather can easily compete with natural leather.

Tanning

Tanning is a permanent preservation process that transforms perishable hides into leather. For shoe production, the finished leather must have the following important properties:

• It must not crack when dry
• It must no longer decay when wet

As the key process in leather production, tanning forms the basis for the excellent properties of leather.

Mineral Tanning

Uses mainly chromium salts during the tanning process. Therefore, it is commonly referred to as “chrome tanning.” Today, it is the most widely used tanning method.

Synthetic Tanning

Uses chemical tanning agents. It is particularly suitable for combining and complementing other tanning methods and largely replaces the varying effectiveness of natural tanning substances.

Vegetable Tanning

Uses plant-based tanning substances and tree bark. It is mainly used for sole leather and also for upper leather in mixed tanning methods.

Finishing of Tanned Leather

After tanning, the leather undergoes finishing processes that prepare it for practical use. The later purpose of the leather determines the finishing method.

Splitting removes uneven areas of the hide, while grain sanding corrects surface irregularities. Softening keeps the leather supple, and embossing enhances the grain structure.

The leather also receives its desired color finish, ranging from transparent aniline dyeing to fully pigmented coatings. Leather can be finished with a deep matte appearance, a glossy lacquer finish or embossed with reptile-like textures.

Fashion trends strongly influence the colors and design of leather surfaces.

Shoe Last

A shoe last is the idealized reproduction of the human foot made from solid materials such as wood, plastic or metal.

The upper of the shoe is shaped over the last and attached to the sole. The shape of the last determines the size, shape and fit of the shoe.

The last forms the basis for the design and development of every shoe model.

Shoe Construction

In technical terminology, a shoe consists of two main parts:

• Upper section
• Sole section

Upper Section Components

Vamp, quarter, tongue, back strap, lining, heel lining, heel counter, toe cap, eyelets and shoelaces.

Sole Section Components

Insole, midsole, outsole, heel, heel top piece, shank reinforcement, filling and welt.

Upper Materials

The visible outer parts are called the upper, while the inner visible parts are referred to as the lining.

Materials used for uppers include:

• Leather
• Textiles
• Synthetic materials

Lining materials include leather, textiles, synthetic materials and warm linings such as fur.

Leather is generally far superior to synthetic materials when it comes to absorbing and releasing foot moisture.

Sole Construction

The outsole is exposed to significant wear and bending stress.

Materials used include:

• Leather
• Rubber
• Synthetic materials

Soft sole materials generally provide better slip resistance than harder materials.

The insole and footbed are in direct contact with the foot and therefore must be evaluated according to their ability to absorb and release moisture.

Shoe Production Process

The technical shoe manufacturing process can be divided into the following stages:

Cutting Department

Cutting upper parts and die cutting. This is a highly skilled process because valuable materials must be used optimally.

Preparation Department

Preparing upper parts for assembly.

Stitching Department

Assembling the upper parts, mainly through stitching, but also gluing and similar processes.

Sole Processing

Manufacturing sole components.

Assembly

Shaping the upper over the last and attaching it to the insole, outsole and heel.

Finishing

Cleaning, applying finishes, inserting insoles, laces and packaging.